Artwork

Aumale

Aumale, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1955
Aumale, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1955

Aumale is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1955 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Aumale is a mid-20th-century fashion sketch created by French couturier Marie-Louise Carven around 1955. The piece is now part of the Museum of Ethnography's collection.

Subject & Meaning

The sketch depicts a woman in a simple yet elegant outfit consisting of a fitted bodice and a flared skirt made from a subtly patterned fabric. The subject's poised stance and neatly pulled-back hair reflect the understated sophistication characteristic of Carven's designs, particularly her focus on petite women.

Technique & Style

Executed in light pencil strokes, the drawing exhibits a loose, quick, and sketchy quality, suggesting an unfinished or preliminary design stage. This approach highlights Carven's design process.

History & Provenance

Created by Marie-Louise Carven, founder of the Carven fashion house (established in 1945), Aumale is notable for its creator's pioneering work in prêt-à-porter and innovative undergarment designs, such as the patented push-up bra.

Context

Aumale reflects the post-war shift in fashion towards more accessible, ready-to-wear designs, a movement in which Carven played a significant role. The sketch's simplicity and emphasis on comfort align with the era's evolving fashion preferences.

Legacy

As part of the Museum of Ethnography's collection, Aumale contributes to the historical record of mid-20th-century French fashion, illustrating Carven's influence on both haute couture and prêt-à-porter.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.