Artwork

'Renardeau'

'Renardeau', by Marie-Louise Carven, 1949
'Renardeau', by Marie-Louise Carven, 1949

'Renardeau' is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1949 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Renardeau is a fashion illustration executed by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven around 1949.

About this work

Overview

Renardeau is a fashion illustration executed by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven around 1949. The drawing, preserved in the Museum of Ethnography, records two female figures dressed in flowing gowns, each accented with wide belts and simple footwear, and includes a small swatch of fabric in the upper left corner.

Subject & Meaning

The sketch presents a comparative study of two dress designs: one figure is shown in a coat layered over the gown, while the other stands with arms crossed, highlighting variations in silhouette and accessorising. The emphasis lies in the visual exploration of garment construction rather than narrative content.

Technique & Style

Rendered with loose, rapid lines, the drawing combines quick gestural strokes with precise annotations in French. Labels such as “boutons en nacre” identify specific material details, and notes on belt placement and seam lines reveal Carven’s methodical approach to documenting pattern elements.

History & Provenance

Created shortly after Carven founded her eponymous fashion house in 1945, the illustration reflects her early work in ready‑to‑wear design. The piece entered the Museum of Ethnography’s collection, where it serves as a record of mid‑century French couture practice.

Context

Carven was among the first couturiers to launch a prêt‑à‑porter line and later secured a patent for a push‑up bra, positioning herself as an innovator in both design and garment technology. The use of nacre buttons aligns with post‑war trends favoring decorative yet affordable materials.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.