Artwork

Sous le vent

Sous le vent, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1958
Sous le vent, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1958

Sous le vent is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1958 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Created circa 1958 by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven, *Sous le vent* is a fashion sketch depicting a woman in a modest, fitted dress.

Created circa 1958 by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven, *Sous le vent* is a fashion sketch depicting a woman in a modest, fitted dress. The illustration features a short‑sleeved, round‑neck garment with an orange motif set against a cream field, and a gently flared hem. A secondary view shows the back, indicating a button or tie closure. The title, meaning “under the wind,” appears in the upper‑right corner.

Subject & Meaning

The drawing presents a single figure wearing a lightweight, airy dress that suggests movement and ease, aligning with Carven’s reputation for designing for petite women and emphasizing comfort. The title evokes a sense of the garment being caught by a gentle breeze, reinforcing the notion of a breezy, unstructured silhouette.

Technique & Style

Rendered in pencil and ink, the sketch employs loose, flowing lines that convey the fabric’s softness and the dress’s subtle drape. The bold orange pattern against a neutral background highlights Carven’s use of striking yet restrained color contrasts, while the minimal detailing underscores the design’s simplicity and practicality.

History & Provenance

Marie‑Louise Carven founded her eponymous fashion house in 1945 and was among the early couturiers to launch a ready‑to‑wear line. *Sous le vent* reflects her mid‑century shift toward accessible, lightweight clothing. The work is part of the Museum of Ethnography’s collection, where it contributes to the institution’s documentation of 20th‑century fashion.

Context

The sketch belongs to a period when French fashion was transitioning from haute couture to prêt‑à‑porter, responding to post‑war demands for affordable, versatile clothing. Carven’s focus on petite proportions and breathable fabrics positioned her brand within this broader movement toward democratized style.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.