Artwork

Trema

Trema, by Madeleine & Madeleine, 1924
Trema, by Madeleine & Madeleine, 1924

Trema is a drawing by Madeleine & Madeleine. It dates from 1924 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Created in 1924 by the design partnership known as Madeleine & Madeleine, this paper sketch is part of the collection of the Museum of Ethnography. The drawing records a fashionable ensemble, rendered in quick lines that capture both the silhouette and the decorative details of the garment. It serves as a visual study of early‑twentieth‑century attire, preserved as an ethnographic artifact.

Subject & Meaning

The central figure is a woman dressed in a full‑length white serge coat, distinguished by a high, rounded collar often referred to as a “col singe.” A belt of small, dark shapes encircles her waist, while a dark hat crowns her head. In her hands she holds a folded swatch of fabric, suggesting a focus on materiality and design process.

Technique & Style

Executed in pen and ink, the sketch relies on concise strokes to delineate form and texture. The artist employs contrast between the light serge surface and the darker ornamental belt, emphasizing the decorative passementerie. A secondary, smaller sketch in the corner sketches an alternative outfit, illustrating the designer’s habit of juxtaposing multiple concepts within a single sheet.

History & Provenance

The work entered the Museum of Ethnography’s holdings as part of its early twentieth‑century fashion archive. Its attribution to Madeleine & Madeleine, a recognized design duo of the period, is confirmed by the handwritten signature at the bottom of the sheet. The piece has remained in the museum’s collection, providing researchers with a primary source on contemporary dressmaking practices.

Context
During the 1920s, French sartorial trends favored structured coats, high collars, and elaborate beltwork, often produced through passementerie techniques.

During the 1920s, French sartorial trends favored structured coats, high collars, and elaborate beltwork, often produced through passementerie techniques. The sketch reflects these preferences, documenting both the aesthetic and technical aspects of the garments. It also illustrates the collaborative nature of design studios at the time, where partners would jointly produce detailed visual records for clients and production.

Artist & collection

Artist

Madeleine & Madeleine

These artists left a small but striking set of 1924 drawings and designs that mix fashion and line.