Artwork

Accordéon

Accordéon, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1956
Accordéon, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1956

Accordéon is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1956 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Accordéon is a fashion sketch executed in the mid‑1950s by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven. The drawing, held by the Museum of Ethnography, records a single figure in motion, rendered with loose, rapid lines that emphasize the garment’s structure rather than detailed rendering.

Subject & Meaning

The illustration depicts a woman walking in a dark, long‑sleeved dress that cinches at the waist and falls in a flared skirt just above the ankle. The title, placed in the margin, alludes to the way the skirt’s pleats resemble the bellows of an accordion, suggesting a focus on the garment’s rhythmic folds.

Technique & Style

Carven’s hand is evident in the sketch’s gestural quality: clean, sharp folds are suggested with minimal strokes, and the overall composition feels like a quick design note. The drawing relies on line work rather than shading, giving it a schematic, almost architectural character.

History & Provenance

Created around 1956, the piece originates from Carven’s early post‑war period, when she was pioneering ready‑to‑wear collections alongside her haute‑couture house founded in 1945. The sketch entered the Museum of Ethnography’s collection, where it is preserved as an example of mid‑century fashion documentation.

Context

During the 1950s Carven was noted for designing lightweight clothing for petite women, a niche that set her apart from contemporaries. Accordéon reflects her interest in functional elegance, translating the movement of fabric into a visual shorthand that could be communicated quickly to ateliers.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.