Artwork
Manteau ample bleu marine

Manteau ample bleu marine is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1957 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
About this work
Overview
Created around 1957 by French designer Marie‑Louise Carven, the drawing titled *Manteau ample bleu marine* records a navy‑blue coat intended for a petite silhouette. Executed as a single sheet image, it is part of the Museum of Ethnography’s holdings and illustrates the designer’s approach to functional yet refined outerwear.
Subject & Meaning
The composition presents a woman wearing a dark blue coat with generous pockets, a cinched waist, and a flare that reaches the knees, complemented by modest shoes. A reverse‑view sketch of the same garment, showing the button line, accompanies the figure, emphasizing both the exterior appearance and the construction details of the piece.
Technique & Style
Carven employs rapid, gestural lines that convey the drape and movement of the fabric without elaborate shading. The drawing relies on clean, simplified shapes, allowing the silhouette of the coat to dominate while omitting decorative embellishments, thereby highlighting the practicality and elegance of the design.
History & Provenance
Marie‑Louise Carven founded her eponymous fashion house in 1945 and became an early advocate of ready‑to‑wear clothing, favoring lightweight materials such as lace. This drawing, produced in the late 1950s, reflects her focus on accessible fashion for smaller frames. It entered the Museum of Ethnography’s collection as part of its broader assemblage of mid‑century fashion documentation.
Context
The mid‑twentieth‑century fashion landscape saw a shift toward mass‑produced garments that retained a sense of style. Carven’s work, including this coat illustration, aligns with that movement, offering a design that balances utility—evident in the large pockets and simple shoes—with a streamlined aesthetic suitable for everyday wear.
Artist & collection
Artist
Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.
Museum
Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
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