Who painted Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau?

Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau was painted by Marie-Louise Carven in 1967.

Where can I see Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau?

Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau is held by Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

Artwork

Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau

Marie-Louise Carven , 1967

Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1967 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

The drawing titled *Manteau fermé sous la poitrine avec chapeau* depicts a woman in a long, straight‑cut coat that reaches the ankles. The garment features a high collar, a modest waist belt, and is paired with a low‑sitting hat. Rendered in confident, quick strokes, the sketch emphasizes the coat’s clean silhouette and the simplicity of its design.

Subject & Meaning

The figure is presented in a poised, understated manner, suggesting a focus on elegance through restraint rather than ornamentation. The high collar and modest belt convey a modest, refined femininity, while the neatly tied bun and low hat reinforce a timeless, modest aesthetic that aligns with mid‑century French fashion ideals for petite women.

Technique & Style

The artist employs swift, assured line work and cross‑hatching to suggest the weight and drape of the fabric without elaborate detail. The front‑view inset isolates the coat’s structure, highlighting its lack of pockets and smooth lines, while the shading technique builds volume through intersecting strokes rather than tonal washes.

History & Provenance

Created around 1967, the sketch is attributed to Marie‑Louise Carven, the founder of the Carven fashion house. Carven, born Carmen de Tommaso, launched her label in 1945 and became known for designing for petite women and for early ready‑to‑wear collections in Paris. The drawing now resides in the Museum of Ethnography’s collection.

Context

The work emerges during a period when French designers were expanding prêt‑à‑porter, offering stylish, accessible clothing beyond haute couture. Carven’s emphasis on lightweight fabrics such as lace and gingham, and her attention to proportion, reflect broader mid‑century trends toward practicality and elegance for a broader clientele.