Artwork

Dalida

Dalida, by Madeleine & Madeleine, 1924
Dalida, by Madeleine & Madeleine, 1924

Dalida is a drawing by Madeleine & Madeleine. It dates from 1924 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Created in 1924 by the design studio Madeleine & Madeleine, this drawing depicts an evening gown intended for a formal occasion. Rendered in ink and pencil, it functions as a technical fashion sketch rather than a finished artwork. The piece includes handwritten French annotations detailing fabric choices—satin, sequins, and tulle—indicating its purpose as a design proposal for a couture garment.

Subject & Meaning

The figure is portrayed in profile, standing still to emphasize the silhouette of the dress. Her posture is formal, with gloved arms and polished heels, suggesting a social setting such as a gala or opera night. The absence of facial detail shifts focus entirely to the garment, reinforcing the drawing’s role as a study in textile and structure rather than a portrait of identity.

Technique & Style
The sketch employs fine linework to define the dress’s contours, with delicate hatching suggesting the sheen of satin and the layered translucence of tulle.

The sketch employs fine linework to define the dress’s contours, with delicate hatching suggesting the sheen of satin and the layered translucence of tulle. Sequins are indicated by clusters of tiny dots, a shorthand common in fashion illustrations of the period. The use of negative space and minimal shading reflects the precision expected in couture design documentation, prioritizing clarity over artistic flourish.

History & Provenance

The drawing entered the collection of the Museum of Ethnography as part of a broader archive of early 20th-century fashion designs. Its preservation reflects an institutional interest in documenting the material culture of dressmaking, particularly how European designers translated luxury materials into wearable forms. No record exists of the gown being produced, suggesting it remained a conceptual design.

Context

In the 1920s, Parisian fashion houses increasingly relied on detailed sketches to communicate designs to ateliers. Madeleine & Madeleine operated within this system, producing designs for elite clients. The emphasis on sequins and tulle aligns with the era’s fascination with movement and light in evening wear, influenced by jazz-age nightlife and the rise of the modern woman as a public figure.

Legacy

This sketch contributes to the historical record of fashion as a disciplined craft, illustrating how materials were specified and visualized before production. It stands as an example of the quiet, often anonymous labor behind haute couture, preserving the language of design notation that shaped women’s evening wear in the interwar period.

Artist & collection

Artist

Madeleine & Madeleine

These artists left a small but striking set of 1924 drawings and designs that mix fashion and line.