Artwork
'Abanico'

'Abanico' is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1951 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.
About this work
Overview
Created in 1951, 'Abanico' is a fashion sketch by French designer Marie-Louise Carven, born Carmen de Tommaso.
Created in 1951, 'Abanico' is a fashion sketch by French designer Marie-Louise Carven, born Carmen de Tommaso. Executed in ink or pencil, it captures a dynamic dress design rather than a formal portrait. The drawing is held in the collection of the Museum of Ethnography and reflects Carven’s early contributions to Parisian ready-to-wear fashion, emphasizing movement and accessibility in clothing design.
Subject & Meaning
The sketch depicts a woman in a short, flared dress adorned with green polka dots on a bright purple ground, its draped shoulder and knee-length hem suggesting playful elegance. She holds a small bag, standing with quiet assurance. The title 'Abanico,' Spanish for 'fan,' may reference the dress’s flared silhouette, evoking the motion of a fan opening—hinting at both form and implied movement in the garment.
Technique & Style
Carven rendered the design with loose, fluid lines that prioritize spontaneity over precision. The background includes a faint sketch of another outfit, indicating this was a working idea rather than a final presentation. The minimal detail and unpolished quality convey the immediacy of creative thought, typical of fashion sketches used to communicate concepts to ateliers or clients.
History & Provenance
Marie-Louise Carven founded her fashion house in Paris in 1945, positioning herself among pioneers of postwar prêt-à-porter. 'Abanico' dates from the early years of her label’s growth, a time when she was refining her signature use of light fabrics and cheerful patterns. The sketch entered the Museum of Ethnography’s collection as part of a broader effort to document everyday fashion as cultural artifact.
Context
In early 1950s Paris, fashion was shifting from haute couture exclusivity toward more accessible designs. Carven’s work responded to this change, favoring wearable, cheerful garments for modern women. 'Abanico' reflects this ethos—its bold color, simple structure, and informal sketch style align with the emerging culture of ready-to-wear as both practical and expressive.
Legacy
Though not a finished garment, 'Abanico' endures as a record of Carven’s design philosophy: lightness, color, and ease. It exemplifies how fashion sketches functioned as vital tools in the transition from bespoke to mass-produced clothing. Today, it contributes to the understanding of mid-century women’s fashion as a site of innovation and personal expression.
Artist & collection
Artist
Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.
Museum
Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
Continue through works from the same source collection.



















