Artwork

Ecailles

Ecailles, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1952
Ecailles, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1952

Ecailles is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1952 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Ecailles, drawn in 1952, is a fashion sketch by French designer Marie-Louise Carven. The image depicts a woman seen from behind, wearing a long, full‑skirted dress with a wide, flared hem. A belted jacket tops the ensemble, and the figure holds a small object in one hand while the other rests on her hip. The drawing’s loose line work captures the garment’s drape and movement.

Subject & Meaning

The title, French for “scales,” suggests an emphasis on texture, perhaps alluding to a scale‑like pattern applied to the dress. This motif aligns with Carven’s reputation for inventive forms and delicate detailing, inviting viewers to consider how surface treatment can shape the perception of a garment’s silhouette and tactile quality.

Technique & Style

Carven’s sketch employs rapid, gestural lines and selective shading to suggest fabric folds and volume rather than precise rendering. The loose strokes convey the softness of the material, while the emphasis on the wide skirt and belted jacket highlights the designer’s focus on structure balanced with fluidity, characteristic of mid‑century French couture sketches.

History & Provenance

Created shortly after Carven founded her couture house in 1945, the drawing reflects her early work catering to petite figures and using refined fabrics such as lace. By the early 1950s she was also pioneering ready‑to‑wear lines in Paris, and Ecailles exemplifies the transitional period when her designs began to bridge haute couture and more accessible fashion.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.