Artwork

Poisson d'or

Poisson d'or, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1952
Poisson d'or, by Marie-Louise Carven, 1952

Poisson d'or is a drawing by Marie-Louise Carven. It dates from 1952 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

Poisson d'or is a fashion sketch created in 1952 by Marie-Louise Carven, founder of the House of Carven. The drawing depicts a woman in a long, flowing dress with a wide skirt and fitted bodice, holding an object and draped with a cloth. Executed in loose, confident lines with selective shading, the piece showcases Carven's design aesthetic.

Subject & Meaning

The subject of Poisson d'or is a woman modeled in one of Carven's designs, emphasizing movement and fabric flow. The attire reflects Carven's signature approach: petite-friendly, lightweight fabrics implied by the loose, flowing sketch. The small object in hand and draped scarf suggest everyday elegance.

Technique & Style

Technically, Poisson d'or features loose, quick lines with nuanced shading around the neckline and sleeves, indicating a focus on texture and form. Stylistically, it embodies Carven's confident, simple yet effective design philosophy, prioritizing the dynamism of the garment on the body.

History & Provenance

Created in 1952, during Carven's pioneering work in prêt-à-porter, Poisson d'or is now part of the Museum of Ethnography's collection. Interestingly, the piece is signed with its title, 'Poisson d’or', in the corner.

Context

Poisson d'or contextualizes Carven's contribution to mid-20th-century fashion, especially her appeal to petite women and early adoption of ready-to-wear lines. The use of implied lightweight fabrics (like lace or gingham, characteristic of her work) positions the design within the era's fashion trends.

Legacy

As part of the Museum of Ethnography, Poisson d'or contributes to the historical record of French fashion design, illustrating Carven's influence on accessible, elegant clothing for women. It remains a testament to her pioneering work in prêt-à-porter and design for petite frames.

Artist & collection

Portrait of Marie-Louise Carven

Artist

Marie-Louise Carven

Marie-Louise Carven (31 August 1909 – 8 June 2015), born Carmen de Tommaso, was a French fashion designer who founded the house of Carven in 1945.