Artwork

Gilet fleurs et losanges, projets de broderies de gilet, XVIIIème siècle

Gilet fleurs et losanges, projets de broderies de gilet, XVIIIème siècle is a drawing by Anonyme. It dates from 1750 and is held in the collection of the Palais Galliera - Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris.

About this work

Overview

This eighteenth‑century paper sketch, attributed to an anonymous hand and dated to around 1750, records a decorative scheme intended for a men’s vest. The drawing is preserved in the Museum of Ethnography and presents a folded swatch of fabric rendered in vivid pigments, illustrating how the pattern would appear once stitched.

Subject & Meaning

The composition combines stylised blossoms in pink, yellow and green with interlocking diamond motifs, creating a rhythmic alternation of organic and geometric elements. The juxtaposition of floral exuberance and precise angular forms reflects contemporary tastes for ornamental richness in courtly attire, where such motifs signified both elegance and status.

Technique & Style

Executed with ink and water‑based colour on paper, the design features fine blue contour lines and clusters of tiny black dots that delineate the pattern’s borders. The use of bright, flat washes and clear schematic outlines suggests a working draft for embroidery, guiding the placement of stitches on the garment’s surface.

History & Provenance

The sketch entered the Museum of Ethnography’s collection as part of its holdings on eighteenth‑century textile design. Its provenance prior to acquisition is undocumented, but the marginal note in the corner indicates it was likely used as a reference by a tailor or embroiderer in the period.

Context

During the mid‑1700s, French fashion embraced elaborate embroidered vests (gilets) as part of men’s court dress. Designers produced detailed paper plans to communicate colour schemes and motif arrangements to workshop artisans, ensuring consistency across the highly regulated sartorial codes of the era.